Comment – Wild Fungi and the Controversy over Collecting for the Pot

There is not a fashionable restaurant worth its salt nowadays that does not boast a flush of wild-mushroom dishes on its menu. Such items as Girolles à la Forestière or Insalata di Porcini in Continental eating houses and 'Kidneys with Wood Ears' in Oriental restaurants are now quite unremarkable. The cookery writers of quality newspapers and magazines also find it